The story begins as our protagonists boarded an Aer Lingus direct flight from Boston to Dublin. It does bear mentioning that departing Logan at 6:30 PM, flying 6 hours, and arriving in Ireland at 5:30 AM, hard on the heels of our madcap wedding, was a supremely disorienting experience, to say the least. However, the flight was pleasant enough despite the jet-lag. Prior to our trip, assorted friends and family had mixed things to say about Aer Lingus, but our experience with the airline was a positive one.
Arriving in Dublin, we cleared Irish Customs and Immigration, located a Bank Of Ireland ATM, snagged some Euros, found a taxi, and crash landed at the Eliza Blues Lodge in Temple Bar in the heart of Ol’ Darlin’ Dublin, with a beautiful view overlooking the River Liffey and the Ha’penny Bridge (once the only bridge connecting the working class Northside to the more refined Southside of Dubs, it used to cost a half penny toll to traverse it). We gassed up our tanks with some much-needed down time, and then set out to explore Temple Bar and the surrounding environs.
After a wonderful lunch at the Boxty House where Krista discovered the joys of the Boxty (a potato pancake with accouterments), we were off to take in the Book of Kells and other treasures at Trinity College, a marvel of Palladian architecture, and the famous stomping grounds of Samuel Beckett, Bram Stoker, and many more literary giants. This was followed by a visit to Grafton Street, Dublin’s most famous shopping avenue, a stroll through St. Stephens Green where we stopped to marvel at the Georgian mansions surrounding us on the abutting side streets, and then (what else?) a pub crawl which included the Temple Bar and the Long Hall, an old and incredibly ornate pub. The Guinness and Bulmers gave our appetites a nudge, so we capped off the evening with some luverly curry. Unfortunately, that night Krista had a bit of insomnia, but it was nothing three episodes of Star Trek couldn’t cure.
The next day, we took in Christ Church Cathedral, Saint Patrick’s Cathedral, a trip through “The Liberties” (now an amazing antiques district, this neighborhood was once sited outside the old city’s walls, where residents enjoyed a certain amount of, well, “liberty”). Then, that holiest of holies, the Guinness Storehouse. The cathedrals were awe-inspiring to be sure, but Guinness was the star attraction of this itinerary, complete with a trip to the Gravity Bar for a complimentary pint (it really does taste better there!) and an amazing 360 degree view of Dublin and the nearby Wicklow Mountains.
After a brief nap, we headed to the Stag’s Head, another remarkable old style pub. However, having missed their fabled pub grub lunch by minutes, we had to find somewhere to eat, and Matt made the fatal error of selecting Oliver St. John Gogarty’s, where the lamb shank was gamey, and the prices were astronomical. Oh the shame! We drowned our sorrows once again at the Temple Bar, where Matt ordered some musky, decidedly spoiled Laphroaig from the top shelf (sample bartender banter as he climbs up the shelves to retrieve the dusty bottle: “What’s that you’d be wanting then, “the Frog” is it? Ya see what yer makin’ me do here…?”). It was cloudy and murky as a Scottish peat bog, when a spirit never should be, and so it was back on the black stuff straight away. A desert at the Eliza Blues made all right again (complete with “Baby Guinness” shots comprised of Bailey’s and Tia Maria), and we met a lovely couple from Toronto and shared some stories about our experiences in the Emerald Isle.
The next morning we were up bright and early to retrieve our rental car. With a free upgrade to a Hyundai Santa Fe SUV due to our designated Hyundai Accent having bald tires, Matt got to experience driving in Ireland proper, out of the firepan and, well, you know the rest. As a sidebar, driving on the wrong side of the road on the wrong side of the car down roads half as wide as ours which wind through precipitous drops and misty landscapes is not for the faint of the heart. During the course of our 10 day trip, Matt did hit a road sign, but all things considered, acquitted himself fairly well.
Somehow, we made it out of the city alive and soon found ourselves in the beautiful rolling hills and plains of the midlands, near Birr, affectionately known as Ireland’s Bellybutton. We stayed at Kinnety Castle, supposedly haunted by a benevolent monk, and drank into the wee hours, visiting with our new friend Frank, a wonderful Irish fellow full of wit. Alas, a rather restless night in the castle followed (think: hot, not drafty and damp), so the next morning, we were off to explore Birr and the Birr Castle Demense, an amazing grounds presided over by Lord Rosse. Then, we headed ever westward, immersing ourselves in the melancholy beauty of Clonmacnoise, ancient Celtic monastery ruins situated on the banks of the River Shannon.
From there we made a beeline to Galway, the city that really knows how to party. We had dinner that first night in Galway at The Quays, which was solid if unspectacular, and then went to Tigh Collie, Matt’s favorite pub in Eire (any pub with photos of Shane MacGowan and Willie Nelson drinking there on the wall has to be seriously cool, right?), where we met some of the locals and enjoyed some serious craic (sample banter: “I bet he’s got a huge clock!”) until the wee hours once again, followed by a trip to Supermac’s (Ireland’s answer to McDonalds, the golden arches themselves being another famous Irish restaurant, but I digress).
The next morning we opted not to do the Aran Islands due to high seas, and instead explored the Spanish Arch, the River Corrib, the Claddagh Ring Museum, and the world-famous Faller’s Sweater Shop, where we loaded up on hand-knit Aran Island sweaters and Donegal tweed caps. A big lunch of fish and chips at MacDonagh’s Seafood House followed. Here in the spectacular Western fringes of Ireland (more craic snippets from the night before: “The West is the best, fuck the rest…”), it seemed to us a drive was in order, so we headed through the stark majesty of the Burren to the breathtaking Cliffs Of Moher, where it seemed we were standing on the edge of the world, after a brief detour through Lindoosvarna, home of Europe’s largest over-40 singles event (it was kickin’!).
A beautiful drive along Galway Bay back to Gallimh (that’s Gaelic for Galway) followed, and then we enjoyed one of the best meals of the trip at The Malt House, where Krista was cajoled into consuming Bloody Mary oyster shots by her new hubby. Then it was back to The Quays, where we watched France dismantle Ireland in Rugby World Cup action, to the dismay of the faithful locals and the delight of some Frenchmen in attendance. We retired back to our room at the Western Hotel after first enjoying a seisun in the hotel bar, replete with an annoying tourist clapping enthusiastically as if she was watching The Chieftans or The Pogues, while a local was heard to remark that it sounded like, “…someone pulling on a cat’s whiskers”. A restful evening was not in the cards, as the hotel had booked a 21st party (quite the shenanigans in the Isles, apparently, even though the legal drinking age is 18 – a fellow guest at a B&B later in our trip later explained it’s just an excuse to drink too much).
The next day we headed to Limerick where we had a nice if somewhat uncomfortable meal in a local cafĂ© (outsiders were not warmly welcomed). Limerick was unfortunately a bit of a shithole (c.f. “Angela’s Ashes”), the white trash underbelly of Ireland from what we saw of it. So, it was off through Tralee to the breathtaking beauty of the Dingle Peninsula, with rainbows erupting all around us.
We arrived at the Emlagh Lodge and met our wonderful hostess Maggie, a real charmer, and we felt instantly welcomed. The view of the bay from our window was beautiful, and we explored this quaint town of 1400 year ‘round residents, landing at Fentons for a solid dinner with three (!) kinds of potatoes. This was followed by a trip to O’Flaherty’s where we witnessed some of the most amazing music of the trip. First up, the boys from Kerry had won the Gaelic Football Cup, and as 5 of them were from Dingle, they were showing the Cup off with a parade, and we witnessed the spectacle of seemingly everyone in the village morphing into a traditional pipe and drum band in the space of this small and charming pub; it brought a tear to Krista’s eye, it was really magic. This was followed by a roaring seisun with squeezebox, fiddle, banjo, and a young fellow from Victoria, British Columbia sitting in and acquitting himself nicely on the Bodhran. We also met some fellow travelers from Switzerland who were real friendly.
We stumbled home, awoke to a spectacular Irish Breakfast cooked up by Maggie, and then set out to explore the stunning Dingle Peninsula via Sleigh Head Drive, where we saw ancient Beehive Huts and marveled at the haunting beauty of the Blasket Islands. Then, it was off to Kilarney, where we explored the sub-tropical forests, majestic mountains, and serene lakes of Kilarney National Park, with visits to Torc Waterfall and Ladies View (which was said to have made a deep impression on Queen Victoria’s ladies in waiting, hence the name), and the majesty of the stately Muckross House. It was back to Maggie’s for the night after another amazing dinner at The Chart House, widely regarded as one of the top 100 restaurants in Ireland, then up and out and off to Cork, the old medieval capital of Muenster, where Krista’s people, the Callaghans, once reigned supreme.
Cork was great fun, and more laid back then hectic Dublin where everyone seems to be walking at a pace of million miles an hour… kind of a Boston to Dublin’s New York. We visited an authentic Olde English market for lunch (with a bit of McDonalds in the mix as well, where ya get raisins with your Happy Meal – and the adverts on the radio cheerfully announce, “…should be eaten in moderation and as part of a balanced diet” – go figure!). We stayed at Jury’s in Cork, which Krista enjoyed very much, and had a wonderful time visiting the Cork Gaol (that’s jail to you non-Gaelic speakers), where we learned about the Irish Revolution and much more).
Time was drawing short, and we were determined to make the most of it, so the next morning we were up early and headed to Blarney Castle to kiss the stone in exchange for the gift of gab. It’s 127 steep steps to the top and they lean you out over the battlements to kiss the stone – quite an experience. Then, it was off to The Rock Of Cashel, where Saint Patrick said his first Mass in Ireland, another haunting ancient Celtic site. We came to rest in Kilkenny, where we took in the medieval splendor of the town, some amazing crafts, Kilkenny Castle, and a wonderful Italian meal.
Alas, all good things must come to an end, and we headed to Dublin the next day, procured some Guinness and Jamesons, and boarded a flight home. Leaving behind picturesque beauty and 65 degree misty weather, we touched down in 90 degree Boston, and decided it might just be time to relocate. So much more left to see, we may just have to head back real soon!